Monday, February 27, 2012

Paradise Found

Paradise Found: the name of a cottage we passed on one of our walks through Spanish Wells. Though the water isn't crystal clear like in the Exumas, to the cruiser who has been 'up island' for several months, it's pretty darn close to paradise!
Let me back up a bit ....
Thursday morning we were up quite early, sitting on the deck watching the sun come up and drinking our morning brew. A final check of the wind forecast, the engine oil and fuel, and we sailed out of the anchorage - a first for us. The wind cooperated on our trip north, largely from the aft starboard quarter, pushing us along at about 5.5 knots. We easily navigated the area known as Middle Ground which is sprinkled with many dark coral heads, all of varying depths below the surface. Then, through Fleeming Channel, and off the bank, out into the deeper waters along the edge of the Northeast Providence Channel. We tried our hand a fishing, but only managed to catch a clump of seaweed. Near three o'clock, almost 2 hours ahead of our planned arrival time, we passed through a tiny rock-edged opening into the protected harbour of Royal Island. There were many boats already anchored there, though still enough room to find a comfortable spot, and several more arrived after us.
Friday morning we waited until just before high tide to depart Royal Island for our five-mile trip to Spanish Wells. Some of the water on our route is charted as being only 7' deep at low tide, so with our 6' draft, we wanted every possible advantage. Depth was never an issue, as until we got closer to the channel into Spanish Wells, we didn't ever see less that 4' below our keel. Approaching the channel, we were faced with several sticks in the water. We knew these were meant to mark sandbars which were likely quite shallow, the question was which side of the sticks was the shallow water on? In clear water, it would be obvious. But this being a busy fishing town has boats in and out all the time, making the water quite cloudy and therefore hard to read. We took a wide approach trying to come into the center of the opening, and as we got closer, the depth quickly dropped below 3 (feet under keel). At the helm, I am calling depths out to Greg, 'three....two and a half.....two.....and a half....two......one and a half......two.....one and a half.....one'
'Hard to starboard' he directs me, the depth drops to less than half a foot under the keel as I turn back out. We quickly get a more comfortable amount of water under our boat, and see that another sailboat behind us has kept close to the west side of the channel. We follow him in and make it in with good depths. Soon, we are happily at a dock at the Spanish Wells Yacht Haven.
We are amazed by the houses that line the streets...well kept pastel coloured homes surrounded by pretty gardens and manicured lawns, several with a variety of lawn ornaments. Furter exploration of the town reveals many thriving businesses, including a very nice grocery store. We learn later that this grocery store, along with the town's electrical company are cooperatives, owned by locals from the town. We also find Kathy's bakery, with delicious pies, squares and fudge. Further down the main street is Papa Scoop's ice cream. Unlike anything we'd ever find at home, this ice cream establishment is in a private driveway. Picture two soft ice cream machine stands, on folding tables, under a canopy. They are covered in tarps with bungee cords around them. The folding sign at the road lists prices. A few hours later when we walk by again, 'tonight's flavours' are listed: caramel and pistachio. They open at 7:30, we must come back and see what this is all about.

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