Finally, An Update!

We are safe and sound at Black Point in the Exumas.
We have had a busy couple of weeks, hard to believe it is New Year's Eve tomorrow!

We spent only one night in Nassau. Having arrived around 4:30, we needed to get to the grocery and hardware stores, and also popped in to the Radio Shack at the mall across from the marina. We returned to the boat and had a quick dinner. Just as we were finishing, the Christmas Parade of Boats passed by with all manner of floating structures all decorated with lights. They got to the end of the harbour, set off a few fireworks and then turned around and 'paraded' back to the start. It was a quick show, and we didn't have the best view, but it was as close to a Santa Claus Parade as we were going to get this year.

We left Nassau early on December 18. We headed across the bank to the top of the Exumas. We were originally headed for Allen's Cay (here, pronounced "key") which is home to a collection of prehistoric iguanas. However, partway through our sail we decided that for better protection from the north wind we would be best to go a bit further and we tucked into Highborne Cay. Courtney from s/v Dharma and I went into the marina there to check out the little marina shop. We had been forewarned that prices in the out islands were considerably higher than elsewhere, but even with that in mind, we were still unprepared for the prices. I was looking for a few little things - small apples: $2 each; tortilla shells: $8.50 for 6; jell-o pudding mix: $4.50. I decided my purchases could wait. Courtney had heard that they had a freezer with meat in it. Her husband is a big fan of steak, so she considered getting a few to treat before Christmas, but decided against when she discovered that a small ribeye was $29.50. Happily, we have found that once you get away from a marina, and into a village or settlement, the prices aren't quite so steep!

On December 19, we left Highborne just before 10 and set anchor again at Norman Cay at noon. What a great way to travel, when you are only a 2 or 3 hour trip between stops! It is certainly a welcome change from our long travel days.
At Norman we were treated to a great beach, some small coral heads to snorkel and explore, and a cute little beach bar. We went for dinner one night, and it is the kind of place you would only expect to see in the movies. There was a great wood deck, lots of wicker furniture and beautiful tiki lights. We enjoyed a great fish dinner, and then headed to the beach for a bonfire before turning in for the night.
We continued to enjoy the slower pace of life, swimming, hanging out at the beach and snorkeling for a few days. We also managed to trim a few limbs of a southern pine tree to put in a container as a makeshift Christmas "tree" for the boat.

On the 21st, we headed out of the anchorage at 9:30, headed for the Exumas Land and Sea Park headquarters at Warderick Wells. By shortly after 10 the wind and seas had built considerably, and we decided that now that we are "here", we really don't have to go anywhere on a day like this. So, back we went, and the 4 of us spent an afternoon re-grouping, reading, and even learning a new card game. Remind us once we're home to teach you how to play "cucumber".

As expected, by the next morning the weather had settled down a bit, and so we set out again, this time for Sampson Cay. We were getting to be in need of fuel, and the marinas are becoming sparser. We filled all our tanks to the brim, and then anchored just beside a stunning rock wall. Just before midnight, we were awakened by bright white lights shining in our cabin window, the faint glow of flashing red lights and yelling. We jumped out of bed, and Greg said to me, "I think we're going to be boarded". He went up to the deck and I could faintly hear the conversation between him and BASRA (Bahamas Air Sea Rescue Association), basically their Coast
Guard. Apparently they felt that we were anchored too close to the marina channel, making passage difficult. The end result was that all parties agreed it would be unlikely that anyone would be entering the marina through the night, so we could stay there, and would move in the morning.

Needless to say, we were up and going early on the morning of the 23rd. We headed for Staniel Cay, which is where we had planned with a few other boats to meet for Christmas time. Again, the beauty of the Exumas, is that beautiful places aren't far apart. So, by 10 we were anchored just off the Staniel Cay Yacht Club. We in fact were anchored very close to the Thunderball Grotto, of James Bond fame. According to the pictures in the yacht club, there were also scenes from "Splash" filmed there. The best time to dive in this cave is a low, slack tide. Meaning that the tide is low, allowing maximum headroom in the cave, and the current is slack, so you're not fighting the current as you swim around. Luckily, this most opportune time was around noon, which put the sun directly overhead the opening in top, illuminating the reef. WOW! The variety of fish was amazing, and every time I passed a blue tang, I couldn't help but wonder if any of them had the same personality as Dory from Finding Nemo.

On the 24th, we swam in the morning, and then headed to the Children's Christmas Party, hosted by the Yacht Club with the help of many generous (American) locals. The kids all gathered at noon, and enjoyed making crafts and playing some outdoor games. At 1, they served pizza, cupcakes and ice cream for lunch. As 2 o'clock neared, you could feel the anticipation building ... there was a very special visitor on his way! Sure enough, shouts of "he's coming", "he's on his way!" were heard and we all filed out to the dock to watch Santa approach on the bow of a boat. He came, joined the party, and had a stocking and gift for every child. The girls returned to the boat, ecstatic with their new snorkel and mask, as well as a variety of chocolates, candies, skipping rope and craft items. It was an amazing afternoon, and all involved are to be commended for their ability to include both local and visiting children in a great day at a very special time of year.

And then then big day came ...
We wondered and worried what Christmas on a boat would bring. Would Santa find us? (Yes) Would we miss home? (Certainly.) Would we enjoy our day? (Absolutely!)
Indeed, there were presents under the tree in the morning, new cameras for the girls to capture memories of this trip, new games, and handmade gifts for everyone, from everyone on board. Thus, hopefully beginning a new tradition for us, that not everything must be purchased.
Despite invitations from kids on other boats to play or watch a movie, we were true to our tradition of spending Christmas just the four of us.
We went swimming again in the afternoon, took a hike into town and saw some locals enjoying new bikes, balls and other gifts.
We spent the evening at a cruisers dinner, again, put on by the yacht club. At 7, they seated everyone at beautifully decorated tables and served soup, salad and then beef tenderloin and lobster tails. For dessert there was a choice of sweet potato cake or bananas foster pie. It was delicious. By 9:30 the crew of Cee Jem were dinghying back across the harbour, heading home.
What a great day!

On the 26th, we moved in the morning, back north a few miles to Big Major Spot. Again, a beautiful beach, well protected from the prevailing east winds. The reported highlight of Big Major is the swimming pigs. There are indeed a few pigs on the north beach that swim out to meet your boat in hopes that you have brought them something to eat. We approached with our dinghy, but then quickly backed off to watch from a distance, as we have heard that their hooves will cut through the inflatable pontoons, resulting in a lengthy repair job.
We were in the company of many large mega-yachts. One even had an inflatable water slide that was suspended from the third deck! It looked pretty fun.
We really enjoyed snorkeling here. We saw huge sea stars (about the size of a dinner plate), gigantic rays that probably had the same armspan as me, and also saw a few nurse sharks swimming by.

Yesterday we motored south to the settlement of Black Point on Great Guana Cay. This cute little town is inhabited by the friendliest, most hospitable people we have met in the Bahamas. There is a great laundry (you with washing machines and dryers, oh! and WATER in your house, might not appreciate that as much as we do), a cute little cafe with great fried conch and an Internet cafe (hence, this update). Unfortunately all the local children have headed to Nassau to spend the holidays with family, so we are missing that part of the experience here.

There is supposed to be a winter storm blowing through early next week, so we are developing our plan for that. The trouble with the Exumas is that all the islands run north/south, so you have to choose your spot carefully when a front is going to pass through and the wind will clock right around the compass. Looks like we will be heading north again and try to tuck in a little spot at Compass or Cambridge Cay.

We will try to be better about updating our blog and keeping everyone up to date...I guess we have all been on Christmas holidays!!

Happy New Year to you all!